Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cut underlayment and trim laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measure room and plank size |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Make straight cuts and align |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old floors |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keep expansion gaps by walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Tap planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Use with tapping block for tight fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cut planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protect knees while installing |
| Level | ✔ | Ensure subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Mark straight lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if needed) | Add cushioning and reduce noise |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cut around pipes and door jambs |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before you put in your laminate flooring, think about how you’ll lay out the planks. Laminate doesn’t have as many pattern choices as vinyl, but your layout can still change the room’s look and feel a lot.
These are common and good patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is the most used and easiest option.
Planks go parallel to the longest wall or follow the natural light. It gives a clean, classic look and works well in most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
For a more lively, upscale look.
Planks are laid at a 45-degree angle to the walls, which can make small rooms feel bigger or add interest to square spaces. This method may need more cutting and extra material.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are laid in a staggered way, with different plank lengths in each row.
This style looks like the natural randomness of hardwood flooring and avoids repetitive patterns.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Some special laminate floors are made for herringbone or chevron patterns.
They look amazing but need exact cuts and more planning. Not all laminate brands have planks for these patterns.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring
Begin by taking off any baseboards and your current flooring for a clean, empty surface.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards — do it slowly to keep the walls safe so you can use the trim again later.
If you’re taking out carpet, cut it into small pieces with a utility knife and lift it up.
For tile or vinyl, follow the right steps to take each one out.
Clean and Check the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum well to get rid of dust and dirt.
Look for cracks, dips, or bumps. Use a leveling compound to fill low spots and sand down high ones. A smooth, flat subfloor is important for a lasting laminate floor.
Put Down Underlayment
Most laminate floors need an underlayment unless it comes with one attached.
Underlayment adds cushion, cuts down noise, and helps fix small subfloor flaws.
Roll it out on the subfloor, making sure the edges touch but don’t overlap. Tape the seams tight.
✅ Pro Tip: If putting it over concrete, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate flooring is simple for DIY projects and mainly uses one easy installation method: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). Laminate usually does not need glue or peel-and-stick methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also known as tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is a very popular and DIY-friendly choice for laminate flooring. Planks click together for a secure fit without nails or glue.
This lets the floor “float” over the subfloor, allowing it to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives needed — makes for easy cleanup and less materials.
DIY-friendly — perfect for beginners.
Versatile — works well over different subfloors like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Always leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room using spacers to prevent buckling.
Follow the maker’s instructions for plank alignment and clicking techniques.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to make sure seams are tight without harming the plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Cut the Short Edge of the First Plank
Start by cutting the short edge of your first plank. This helps it fit nicely against the wall for a neat look. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker ones.
Place the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Put the first plank by the starting wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between it and the wall. This gap is important because laminate floors change with temperature and humidity.
Use Spacers to Keep the Gap
Put spacers between the wall and the floor to keep the gap even as you lay the floor. Keep using these spacers all around the room.
Stagger Joints for Strength and Look
When starting the second row, cut the first plank to be at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the last row. This staggers the joints, making the floor stronger and look more natural.
Tip: Don’t align joints across rows — it can weaken the floor and make it look fake.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
To make straight cuts (like at the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to mark your cut line.
Snap the plank along the mark for a clean break (this works best for thin laminates).
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for clean cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
For cutting around door frames or corners:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools make precise, curved, or angled cuts that other saws can’t.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank for the pipe size.
Make a straight cut from the hole to the plank’s edge.
Seal around the pipe with a bead of silicone caulk to prevent moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw (or undercut saw) to trim the door frame bottom.
This lets you slide the laminate beneath for a neat look.
Pro Tip: Wear safety goggles and work slowly with power tools to avoid damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark shape, cut slowly |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill hole + cut to edge, leave ½” gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut jamb to slide plank |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim excess for snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Start each row by tilting the tongue of the plank into the groove of the last row. Lower it gently until it clicks or fits well.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
For a good fit, use a tapping block and a non-marring hammer.
Put the tapping block next to the plank’s edge.
Tap gently to close gaps between planks.
Never use a standard hammer directly on the laminate to avoid damage.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep staggering the end joints by at least 6 inches in each row for stability and a natural look.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers along walls to keep the 1/4-inch expansion gap during installation.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
After putting down all the planks, add transition strips at doorways and areas where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Make the transition smooth and safe.
Keep the edges of your laminate safe.
Follow the maker’s instructions for type and installation.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Choose the right transition type:
T-molding for floors of the same height.
Reducer strips for moving to lower surfaces like tile or vinyl.
Attach transition strips to the subfloor, not directly to the laminate, leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap to stop buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put baseboards back, attaching them to the wall, not the floor. This lets the laminate expand and shrink freely underneath.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before moving furniture back or walking a lot on the floor:
Give at least 48 hours for the laminate to get used to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in Wet Areas
Laminate floors are not suitable for very wet places like full bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water can get in the seams and cause them to swell or warp.
Using a Hammer on Planks
Don’t hit the laminate directly with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to gently secure planks without hurting their edges.
End Joints Overlap
Avoid lining up or overlapping the end joints of planks in nearby rows. This can make the floor weak and lead to gaps or uneven spots. Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches.
Skipping Expansion Gap
Not leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edges can cause the floor to buckle as it grows and shrinks with temperature and humidity changes.
Walking on Floor Too Soon
Let the laminate floor sit and settle for 48 hours after you install it before walking on it or putting heavy furniture on it.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Carefully and Plan for Extra
Measure your room well and buy 10% more laminate flooring for cuts, mistakes, and repairs. Check Planks Before Installing
Look at each plank for damage before using it. Set aside any damaged ones to keep a good finish.Wear Knee Pads for Comfort
Use knee pads to protect your knees, especially during long work. This helps you work better.Work Carefully and Take Your Time
Go slow with each step, from the first row to cutting planks. Rushing can cause bad fits and mistakes.Keep the Right Expansion Gap
Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the edges to stop buckling as the laminate changes.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many people pick laminate flooring because it’s easy for DIY projects. Deciding to do it yourself or get a pro depends on your skills, tools, and how hard the job is.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
Save money on labor costs.
Work at your own pace.
Ideal for small, simple rooms.
❌ Cons:
Needs basic tools like spacers and saws.
Mistakes can cause warping or gaps.
Takes time, especially for big or odd-shaped areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Quick and precise setup.
Experts manage subfloor prep and tricky parts.
Often comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Extra cost for labor.
Typically, laminate flooring installation costs between $4 and $12 per square foot based on style and difficulty. For more details, see our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you know how to install laminate flooring, you’re on your way to having a stylish, strong floor. If you want to avoid the hard work, our expert team is here to help.
We take care of everything — from subfloor prep to perfect plank alignment — so you can relax and enjoy great results. We’ll help you choose the best laminate style and underlayment for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area.
